Shop Talk

Some of y'all likely seen my other oldie post where I built the old Pro Vantage. I wanted something with a little more zip. Something that would be good for spot shooting but would be a little better for 3D should the need arise and my regular 3D bow be broke down like I've been the past few weeks and causing me to miss several tournaments.

My son has a 1995 Hoyt Superstar and I like it pretty good so I set out trying to find me one.

So I bought this Superstar Legacy for $75. In it's current state it's much too long of draw length for me with 32" draw wheels. So I found another donor bow, (a Hoyt Mystic Rebe)l, on eBay with accuwheels that should work nicely.

I'm going for 44-1/2" axle to axle. 30" draw @50# peak weight.

I'll update my progress once I get the donor bow.

I bought a new sight for my recurve bow and need to line up the center shot with my string.

Has anyone tried clamping a recurve in to a vise meant for compound bows?

Not a press but a vise where it holds the whole bow upright by the bottom limbs.

Is there enough range that it could hold a recurve bow fairly upright

Setting up a drawing board down in my workshop this winter.

How do you know when you're at the wall if you're not drawing and feeling the let-off?

I want to test if my wife's bow is really set to 27.5" and mine is 30"

So I mentioned I just rebuilt an old Hoyt Pro Vantage Tracer in another post but I've had a few problems to work around.

So I thought I'd detail them here just in case someone else ran into a similar situation with an old bow.

This bow is a late 80s bow. I think an 89 model. My younger cousin, whom I call my nephew bought it when he was a teenager. Eventually he moved on to a more modern compound bow and then eventually to a crossbow. So he had the Hoyt thrown in a shed in and the string and cables had broken and it was a mess with mud dobbers nests in every hole. The decal on the limb: DSS Special, is his initials.

After sanding it down and getting rid of the camo paint and installing new string and cables and adding some vintage accessories I was having trouble getting satisfactory arrow flight.

I found that one limb was about 3 turns of the limb bolts weaker than the other. I tried swapping the limbs from one end to the other. I tried tillering the bottom limb 1/8 inch closer to the string than the top string as they used to do back in the day.

Nothing helped.

I continued to get a nock high kick with the arrows and tear in my paper.

Finally my solution was I simply cranked both limbs down the same number of turns and put 10 extra twists in the top cable.

Finally! I began getting better bare shaft bullet holes through the paper.

You can see with the picture of the paper the top hole was 8 twists, left hole 9, right hole 10.

Now I'm ready for some indoor!

And as you can also see, I need to start shooting at a different spot with each arrow while I practice!

Help us understand.